Vääntösauvojen irroitus (irti on)

Auto -94 Astro AWD ja katin ja etuputkien vaihto työn alla.
Katti ja putket "yhtäpuuta"...
http://info.rockauto.com/EasternCat/50269.jpg
Tuntuu vain ettei onnistu ilman vääntösauvojen irroitusta.
Tilanne on nyt se että on keula ylhäällä ja vääntösuva on ilman kuormaa lukitus/säätö poistettuna.
Sauva tulis kyllä alatukivarren läpi suosiolla mutta takaosan säätöpalikka ja itse ns. ankkuri ovat kuin yhtä puuta.
Olen yrittänyt ruosteenirroitus aineet ja pihdeillä kiinni sauvasta ja koputtelua pihtien avulla mutta kiinni on ja pysyy.
Itse sydeemi on tuollainen...
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 0a83d7.gif

Ja ohjekkin on lontoon kielellä...

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2.Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3.Mark and unload the torsion bars:
4.Mark the adjustment bolt setting on the bolt adjusters.
5.Increase tension on the adjustment arm using the unloader tool J-36202, or equivalent.
6.Remove the adjusting bolt and retainer plate.
7.Move the tool aside.

For 1993-96 vehicles:
Remove the torsion bar anchor adaptor by sliding the adapter out toward the rear, then removing the adjustment arm.
Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar (since there are different bars for the right and left sides), then remove the torsion bar from the vehicle.

To install:

For 1993-96 vehicles:
Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar and position the bar to the vehicle. Remember that there are different bars for different sides of the vehicle and the tape or paint should be located to the rear.
Install the bar anchor adaptor, by positioning the adjustment arm, then sliding the adapter tube over the torsion bar and adjustment arm.
Make sure the adapter tube is properly seated into the front face of the crossmember. Make sure the torsion bar is properly seated into the rear of the adapter tube against the stop tabs.

 

Kävi tuossa itsellä mielessä kun noita kuvia katteli pari vaihtoehtoa.
1. Ruuvaillen säätimen takaisin ja koitan tampilla irroitella tuon ns. "ankkuroinnin" kuten ohjeessa lukee.
2. Tuon "ankkurroinnin" päähän reikä poralla ja yritys iskee vääntövarsi irti.
Hyvät neuvot olis nyt tarpeen kun aamulla jotain ratkaisevaa/kohtalokasta pitäis alkaa tekeen...

 

Löytyihän se jonkinlainen tarkempikin selostus...
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.

Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.

Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.

Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.

Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.

Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.

Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.

Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.

When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).

Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.

Remove the tool.

Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.

On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.

Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.

Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.

Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.

With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.

Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.

Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.

Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.

From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.

Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.

Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.

Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.

Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.

Tuli kuitenkin tehtyä siten että molemmat puolet pois jännityksestä, tunkilla laatikon tuenta. Poikki tukipalkki irti ja palkki vääntöjousineen pois.
Kyselin parista alan firmastakin ohjeita noiden takapäiden purkamiseen mutta eivät kyllä osanneet neuvoa.....