A-voortista

Overdrive.fi on harrasteautoiluun keskittyvä verkkosivusto, joka tarjoaa sisältöä harrastajien ja rakentajien tarpeisiin. Epäasiallinen ja loukkaava sisältö, joka rikkoo sivuston käyttöehtoja, poistetaan. Näin eivät myöskään poliittinen keskustelu ja aiheet sinne kuulu. Harrastus on yhteinen poliittisesta kannasta riippumatta. Overdriven yleiset käyttöehdot löytyvät täältä, ja on hyvä muistaa, että jokainen keskustelija on rikos- ja vahingonkorvausoikeudellisessa vastuussa omien viestiensä sisällöstä.

Ketju osiossa 'Rod & Kustom.', aloittaja Anonymous, 17.12.2002.

  1. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Mistä pitäs aloittaa A-fordin (-30 tudor) jarrujen metsästys? mielessä nestejarrut ja tekniikaksi ehkä 4kone volovo tai ford 2000.
    Pieniä tekniikka puuteita on jos entisöisin voortin, mutta sellainen soft rustorod on käynny mielessä. onko kukaan tehnyt suomessa A-voortia rodikäyttöön eli keltä vois kysellä tietoa,neuvvoa ja osia. iteltä saattaa jäähä jotain ylimääräistäkin osia jäljelle. voorti tuli pelastettua mobilistin varikolta parempaan talteen :wink:
    Rane keski-kaljalasta
     
  2. lake ender

    lake ender Gearhead

    Taitaa noi 40:sen voortin olka-akselit käydä a mallin etuakseliinkin. Jos muistan väärin, niin korjatkaa.
    Niillehän saa asennettu jos jonkinnäköstä levyjarrua, jos ei halua vanhoja voortin jarruja rakentaa.
     
  3. B 49

    B 49 Gearhead

    Kyl sinne saa nykyään esim. SBC:n.
     
  4. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    nyt muistui mieleen että johonkin 30 luvun olka-akseliin kävis amazonin levyt mutta mihin vuosmalliin? millaisilla soviteosilla.
     
  5. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

    Volvon navat sopii tosiaan ~36-39-Fordin etuakseliin ja onhan noita soviteholkkeja helppo tarvittaessa sorvailla muillekin jarruille. Satuloille joutuu tekemään kiinnikkeet. Tietoa aiheesta (ja myös osia) saanee esim. yksityisviestillä tai meilillä Fast-37:lta.

    B 49: Mites SBC:n saa A-Fordiin, kertoisitko minullekin?

    Osia varmaan löytyy fsra:n ja Mobilistin kautta.

    Tuo lättis ei taida tehonsa ja painonsa puolesta olla sallittu keulille? (Korjatkaa jos olen väärässä.) Itse olen miettinyt A-roadsteria korinvaihtona -37:n rungolle ja tekniikalle... Ja voihan sitä aina lupia kunnon koneelle ruveta hakemaan.

    <font size=-1>[ Tätä viestiä muokkasi: Chevy ´53 2003-10-07 10:27 ]</font>
     
  6. B 49

    B 49 Gearhead

    Yks kaveri kertoi auttaneensa yhtä toista jannua A-Fordin lupien kanssa.Luvat tuli 267cid SBC:lle,four linkille ym.Auto on kuulemma nyt katsastettu.En uskalla mainita nimiä tässä yhteydessä koska itsellä ei ole asian kanssa sen enempää tekemistä.
     
  7. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

    Joo tuo selvensi asiaa, luvathan tosiaan vaatii, muuten ei taida onnistua.

    Tuntuu, että luvat on aika hyvin menneet läpi noissa 30-lukulaisten tapauksissa, kun vaan on kunnolliset hakemukset. Pitääkö paikkansa? Aika paljon on näkynyt rodeja, joissa on esim. kone ja etuakselisto vaihdettu luvanvaraisesti.
     
  8. Bätmobiili

    Bätmobiili 1st gear

    Juu toi Volvon jarruhomma on varsin yksinkertainen toteuttaa ainakin ´32:n ja uudempien akseliin. Oman ´37 Fordini akseliin homma oli ihan pulttaa kiinni juttu! Vanhemmista en oo ihan varma -> tarttis kokeilla / mittailla...

    Ja on totta että mulla on osia ko. paketin sovitukseen ja on tossa täydellinen etuakselikin jos joku haluaa ostaa pois! Onko jollakin tarvetta?
     
  9. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Käviskös se sun etuakseli -34 Fordiin, elikkä saiskos siitä niitä kanta-auto-prosentteja...
     
  10. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Yx hyvä vaihtoehto jarruiksi on esim.50-55
    F-100 rummut ja teho riittää isommallekin koneelle.Kyllä noita A-V8 Hottentotteja tulee
    malttakaa mielenne.
     
  11. Bätmobiili

    Bätmobiili 1st gear

    Käy kun vaihtaa vaan jousen akselin edestä akselin päälle!
     
  12. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    älä hitossa heitä alkuperäistä A fordin akselia menemään OSTAN SEN HETI KUN SE JOUTAA.Se on tärkein osa jota en pysty tekemään itse.loppu auto kyllä syntyy transitin osista ja rautakaupan tavarasta.EN SITTEN TEE RODIA KATSASTUSMIESTÄ VARTEN VAAN OMIIN TARPEISIINI.
     
  13. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

    Mulla lojuu 38-Chevroletin ja T-Fordin etuakselit ylimääräisenä. Saa noutaa edullisesti jos se auttaa rodikannan lisääntymistä.


    ***Myyty molemmat***

    <font size=-1>[ Tätä viestiä muokkasi: Chevy ´53 2004-04-18 21:19 ]</font>
     
  14. B 49

    B 49 Gearhead

    "Pari" sanaa jarruista.Ei tosin mun kynästä.

    Brakes For Early Ford Spindles

    Ever since Fords started rolling off the assembly line, somebody has been trying to make them go faster. It didn't take long to realize that the panic binders didn't give the necessary Whoa to the new go. All types of brakes have been developed with some success and sold as accessory units to the public.

    With the advent of the Model A came the four-wheel mechanical brake system. They had to go four-wheel brakes because of increased weight and performance. Cars kept getting heavier and faster, but the factory brakes stayed essentially the same until 1939, when Ford added a hydraulic wheel cylinder to increase the pressure of the shoes against the drum. These brakes were the dual anchor Lockheed type used from 1939 to 1948.

    Hydraulic brakes are much more efficient than mechanical units, so the guys running Ford mechanicals switched to hydraulics. On '37 and '38 models it's just a matter of bolting both the front and rear assemblies on, including backing plates, shoes, wheel cylinders, and hubs.

    With '28 through '34 Fords, the plot thickens. First we need to buy a hydraulic conversion kit that consists of two steel rings, two smaller adapter rings that slide over the spindle bolts and two cone-shaped shims. When the mechanical linkage is removed two sockets remain on the tops of the king-pins and serve no useful purpose. Saw them off if you wish. The two large ring spacers are slid over the "A" spindle backing plate registers. They are just the thickness of the backing plates and 3/16-inch wide to make up the difference between the center hole diameter of "A" backing plates and '39 or later backing plates. With the backing plates in position, note that the bolt-up holes in the hydraulic plates are spaced slightly wider than the 'A" spindle holes. A small rattail file alleviates this problem. Position the grease baffle and bolt everything up. The baffle keeps the spacer ring in place. Next, place the "A" grease seal ring on the spindle. The new ring is used to space the new hub bearing for correct drum clearance and for the new drum grease seals.

    On an "A" rear end, a cone-shaped spacer is required on each tapered axle end to space the drum the right distance from the backing plate. The backing plates will bolt right up to the rear axle housings after clearance work has been done. First, the Houdaille type shock mount/spring hanger on the rear end will hit the backing plate. The area in question is just over one inch wide, a half-inch tall and just below the wheel cylinder. Cut a notch in the backing plate at this point for clearance and everything is kosher. The brake line might interfere here, so if you are not going to use the stock shock links, cut them off. If they are to be retained, file a depression in the top of the spring hanger (to the back side of the shock mount) for the brake line to snuggle into. Now bolt everything together. 1932-34 cars don't have backing plate clearance problems but they still use the rear axle shims and spindle spacers.

    1941-48 Lincoln Bendix brakes are much better than Ford Lockheed brakes. They are of the duo-servo layout and have a higher brake factor; this means more braking for less pedal pressure and more consistent fade characteristics under rough conditions. They are recommended for use on the front spindles only for better braking on '32-'48 cars using '39-'48 Ford Lockheed brakes. Lincolns at both front and rear have been used in some instances with good results.

    In our research we found that Lincoln front backing plates only fit '32-'34 spindles. A notch must be cut below the wheel cylinder to clear the kingpin bearing on top of the spindle. Because the '37-'48 Ford and '41-48 Lincoln brake drums are of the same dimension, each can be used on the front with the 'A" spindle spacer. Lincoln backing plates on the rear must be clearanced the same as Ford on the 'A" rear end. The best way to use Lincoln brakes on the front is to use '37-'48 Ford spindles with the Lincoln rear end backing plates which bolt on with no alterations. Use either Lincoln or Ford hydraulic brake drums with no spacer. Lincoln brakes are scarce and expensive because they rate with the best.

    With the advent of the first overhead V8, the advanced machining and engineering techniques attributed to the effect of WWII, and the need of a good passenger car brake, came a boom of differently engineered brakes. With a little experimenting and imagination some of these brakes were adapted to early Ford spindles. In our research we found that '52 Ford pickup brakes will fit '37-48 spindles with a change of bearings, races, and seals. Finned aluminum Buick drums of the late '50s and early '60s can also be adapted to the pickup brake. We also found '51 or earlier Studebaker Champion front brakes on a Model A front axle.

    Probably the most popular front brake swap on early Ford spindles in the late '50s and early '60s was the finned aluminum Buick drum and the Chrysler total contact brake. The Buick drum was of the type used during the '59 through '62 period. The Chrysler brake was of the type introduced around '59.

    The Chrysler total brake assembly required no modification. To provide a seat and to locate the Chrysler support plate, machine the face of the Ford spindle to the diameter of the backing plate hole, a depth of 1/16-inch. Another way is like that of the Ford hydraulic to 'A" spindle adapter. Fabricate an aluminum spacer ring 1/4-inch thick to fit between the locating shoulder on the spindle and the hole diameter of the backing plate.

    The brake support plate is separate from the dust shield, which looks like a backing plate. The dust shield is rotated forward on the spindle stem until~ the shield clears the kingpin bosses. Then four 3/8-inch holes are drilled in the spindle, corresponding to the position of the holes in the shield. The two holes closest to the bosses are tapped to take 7/18-inch bolts while the other two take 3/8-inch nuts and bolts. Tap them all if you prefer.

    In adapting the Ford spindle to the Buick drum, use the stock Ford drums. The inner and outer bearing race portions of the hub are cut off at the seat. The hub portions are then machined to an outside diameter as that of the inside diameter of the Buick hub. Press the machined portions into the Buick drum hubs after the Buick races have been removed. Use about a .001 press fit. In this manner you can use stock early Ford bearings and grease seals.

    The only current kit shoe brake conversion to '37-'48 Ford spindle is offered by Vic Hubbard Speed & Marine, 21040 Meekland Ave., Hayward, California. The kit allows use of '55-64 Chevy brakes, drums, backing plates and wheels. The steering arm is not included. No arm is needed on '28-'34 Ford spindles. A special steering arm is needed when using with '35-'48 Ford, available at extra cost. We don't know how this conversion is made but you can write Hubbard for details and price. They also have a line of disc brake setups so ask for a catalog.

    Another swap around a long time that has recently really caught on is the early GM spindle and brake unit changeover. Use the 1941-'55 Pontiac; 1937-56 Olds; 1949-54 Chevy; or 1953-62 Corvette.

    There are two ways of installing the GM spindle on an early Ford beam axle. The first is to ream the Ford axle kingpin holes to .859-inch inside diameter, so the GM kingpin can be used. This is beat done with an expansion reamer but it takes a while. When you do the job, have the new kingpin to measure with your one inch micrometer. After you have taken a mic reading, start reaming. After each ream use a telescoping gauge (snap gauge) to find the inside diameter. Then take a mic reading. Take about a quarter to a half turn on the expansion reamer nut each time, depending on reamer used. Most important is not to overload the blades or they will possibly brake or chatter. You will notice that if you turn the nut equally each time the reamer will remove the same amount within about .001-inch. In this way you can calculate what you will take off by how much you turn the nut on the reamer. This is important when you get down to the last few thousandths. When you do start making the finish passes, go about .001-inch each time and test the kingpin for fit. When the kingpin fits the bore with a hand press fit or when you can tap it through with a hammer, you're home safe.

    The other choice is to make or have made a set of bushings for the GM spindle to fit early Ford kingpins. Use a quality bearing bronze for the bushing. Machine the bushing by first chucking up a 1-1/8-inch diameter bar of bronze bushing stock in a three-jaw lathe chuck with about 1-1/2 inches protruding past the jaws. Our spindle measured 1.055 inches inside diameter for the bushing but measure your own. Add about 1/2-thousandth (.0005) to the outside diameter for a press fit. Turn the bar to your diameter the length of your spindle boss height. Next, center drill, and drill to 51/64-inch a little longer than the bushing length. Cut off with a lathe parting tool to length. Measure the spindle boss for the grease fitting hole height, center punch, and drill a 1/4-inch hole in the bushing. Press bushing in spindle boss with the grease hole aligning with the boss grease fitting. Now ream the bushings to an .812-inch inside diameter with either an expansion reamer or Ford kingpin reamer.

    The kingpin bosses are all the same height on '28-48 Ford axles, 2-3/8 inches. Some GM spindles, such as some of the Olds, have enough space between the kingpin bosses to place the 1/2-ineb tall stock Ford or GM spindle bearing. Some of the spindles, like the '49-54 Chevy spindle, do not have the room so a special bearing must be made. Use roller assembly NTA 1423 and two races. This bearing has a total height of .327-inch. A chromed axle could possibly have enough chrome on the kingpin bosses that you might have to shave, say maybe .010 off the boss bottom to get the bearing to fit. Some Chevy spindles have a little more room than others and the bearing will just slip in. Some axles have to be machined regardless, because the boss bearing surface has been chewed. The thrust bearing is of such close tolerance that an uneven race surface will keep the bearing from working. The race will settle to the shape of the metal supporting it. The best way to get an even surface is to mill.

    The easiest way to set up to mill is to use a vertical end mill. First set the spindle head on its 00 marks in a vertical position. Next, place a drill chuck in the spindle with a dial indicator in the chuck. Securing the axle~ to the table can be done in different ways. One is to use an angle vise placed at either end of the table with the jaws parallel to the length of the table. Turn the axle upside down and place a new kingpin about one inch into the boss. Set the axle end in the vise with the other end hanging over the opposite table end. If you have a chrome axle, use copper sheet on the vise jaws. Use a bubble level on the front and side of the kingpin to find the vertical position. Then pull the vise snug, but not tight.

    Position the dial indicator in such a way that you are able to move the axle up and down so that the indicator runs the full length of the kingpin. If the kingpin is straight up and down there will be no measurable difference. If you set the dial indicator on 0~ at the top of the kingpin side and move it down with a plus or minus reading at the bottom, the kingpin is not straight up and down. By using a wedge of sorts or a machinist jack under the opposite axle end, the left-right adjustment can be made by moving the axle up and down. The fore and aft adjustment can be made by moving the vise on its axis. Because the vise moves in one direction from 00 to 450, you might have to turn your vise around so the adjustment is in the opposite direction if the pin cannot be aligned in the first direction. Once you reach the 0 at the top to 0 at the bottom on both sides of the pin, remove the drill chuck and install an end mill or flycutter.

    If you don't want to mill your axle (and try your luck), a smaller thrust bearing is available. It is roller assembly NTA 1423, the same as the last bearing with 1/8-inch rollers, but with a static capacity of 5980 lbs., and basic dynamic capacity of 2500 lbs. Use TRC 1423 races which are .095-inch thickness, .029-inch less than TRD 1423. If the axle bearing surface is rough, and some are, you're pushing your luck without milling.

    The grease retainer can be machined several ways. Any grade aluminum or mild steel will work. If you have a 1-5/8~inch bar, chuck it up in a three-jaw lathe chuck with about 1-1/2 inches protruding from the jaws. Face the end and center drill. Drill about 3/4-inch deep with any drill between 3/4 to 1-3/8-inch. Finish the inside diameter with a tool bit or boring bar. Next, cut the race recess, measuring depth of cut by micrometer collar on cross slide, inside micrometer, telescoping gauge and a one to two-inch micrometer, or vernier calipers. Verniers will also measure the length of the cut easily, as will a one-inch depth micrometer. When the inside has been machined, 180 or 220 emery cloth the recess for any burns and radius the inside edge. lf you started with a larger bar, turn to diameter before cutting to length with a lathe parting tool.

    If you have some 5/16-inch aluminum scrap about the diameter of the retainer, you can quick-n-dirty machine it out in no time. Find approximate center using dividers and centerpunch. Using the dividers, scribe the outside and inside diameter lines. Hacksaw or bandsaw off, close to the outside diameter, any large protrusions. It just takes longer to machine if you don't. Place a 3/4 or one inch parallel in a machinist vise with the plate on top. Secure the scrap and center drill after sliding the parallel out. Drill a 1/2 or 3/4-inch hole to match whatever size nut and bolt you have that is about three inches long. Really cinch the nut down on the scrap so it won't spin on the bolt. Slip the bolt in a three-jaw chuck until the nut touches the jaws. Tighten the jaws so they hol~1 the bolt, but don't screw the threads up too bad. Ya gotta use that low-budget mandrel one more time, not counting getting the nut off after the first time. Take light passes to keep from spinning the bolt in the chuck. When you reach the diameter by eyeballing the scribe or using a mic' or vernier, disassemble your nifty mandrel. Place the retainer in the chuck again and eyeball for runout as the chuck spins. If it is in the jaws crooked you can see it wobble back and forth as you stand at the lathe in normal position. Don't worry about the hole not being true to the center because it bobs up and down when you look at it from the end of the lathe. Just get the retainer face true in the direction the chuck spins by eyeballing. A tool bit works a little better than drilling the hole and using a boring bar because of the lesser pressure against the retainer, As the hole gets bigger, the sides get thinner, and the retainer starts to collapse under jaw pressure. When you reach inside diameter, then cut the recess as in the first method.

    Now press your retainer on a race. The outside diameter of the race is sheared, which means that it is not exactly round; that there are numerous low spots. If the race is loose in the press fit, remove race and peen edge of tight side to make the inside diameter even smaller. Place the race through loose side and carefully seat race with a brass drift punch and hammer. Place the unit on a flat piece of metal like an anvil or vise column to do this. With the bearing and the other race installed, the loose race should rotate freely. Install on axle with pressed race at the top. It takes about 20 minutes to do this whole thing with no coffee break or messin' around.

    When it comes to kingpins, the GM pins will bolt right in after you have carefully ground a new notch. Assemble the spindle to the axle and set the kingpin in until it is equal distance from the end, on each end. Mark center of axle hole on kingpin with any method of your choice and remove. Grind a small notch and replace to check for notch height and kingpin bolt fit. If you're too far up or down from the center, grind on the short side to center the notch and recheck. Try to grind a notch similar to the Ford bolt shape. When the kingpin bolt can be seated snug with a hammer, with the head still out one end and enough threads out the other for a lock washer and nut, you're home safe.

    With early Ford kingpins you use the '37-41 pin which is 5-1/2 inches long. Remove the top retainer so the pin will fit under the GM grease retainers. You will possibly have to grind a new notch, check to be sure. On GM spindles that use the 5-1/4 inches kingpin length use the '37-41 Ford kingpin and measure the axle/spindle combo to see which end to grind off, or both, to retain the stock notch. Use an abrasive cut-off saw or grinder.

    You will have to fabricate a steering arm if one did not come with your spindles. You may have to shorten your tie rod. This depends on what axle you use. A dropped axle will have the kingpin bosses closer together than stock, but the stock axles also vary in total length, plus spring perch hole distances vary. Put your front end together and try your tie rod, it might fit as is.

    In order for the Ford tie rod ends to fit the GM steering arms, the tapered tie rod holes must be enlarged. Both the GM and Ford tie rods have the same taper angle and use the same taper reamer. It is possible to ream the GM steering hole from either side so the Ford tie rod could be placed on the top or bottom for radius rod clearance. A tie rod could also be made from 13/16-inch outside diameter .190-inch wall thickness seamless tubing. All you will need to do is tap the inside diameter with a 1/2 x 20 tap. If you have a right and left hand tap, you will be able to make a tie rod that you can adjust like the Ford. If you use a right hand tap on each end, one end will have to be removed from the steering arm to adjust toe-in.

    You will also have to change the axle camber. Our reference shows 90 kingpin inclination on '28-'34 Ford axles and 80 on '35-48. 1949-59 Chevy is 40, '37-'48 Olds is 4~5/60 and '49-52 is 50, That is a sampling of only a few of the differences. All it really shows is that you have to bend the axle.

    One way to figure how much to bend your axle comes from Ace Brake & Wheel Service, 1415 25th Street, Bakersfield, California 93301, Owner Fred Ousley, suggested a method to save the owner a small fortune in shop labor, if he could find a shop willing to do it. He said that to bend the axle a half to a full degree was relatively easy. The trouble comes when bending a substantial amount; the kingpin caster will wander, you sort of chase your alignment all over the axle because of the extreme pressures needed to bend it while in the car.

    His method is to place the axle in a vise with copper jaw covers, preferably a large vise, lay a straightedge horizontally from the inner kingpin hole edge on one side to the opposite kingpin hole edge. Level the axle with a bubble level. Next, assemble the GM spindles on the axle and place a level on any machined surface that is true to the brake drum axle center. This could be the machined surface for the backing plate or the bearing locating surface on the spindle end, The spindle will visibly point upward but you will need the level for measuring how much to bend the axle until the bubble hits level,

    If you are lucky enough to have or find a dropped axle that is really sway-backed, no problem bending it. Place the axle in a hydraulic press, belly up, and place wood blocks wherever the axle touches the press. We used a 250-ton press that wouldn't take no for an' answer, but a smaller press could easily work. Press equally along the axle between the spring perches to straighten out the axle. At the same time the kingpin angles are lessening due to the axle bending. It's trial and error any way you bend it, so level the axle, replace the spindles, then check with your level after each time you bend.

    Once you have leveled the axle, then you are ready to twist it so the hole centers on the same plane. Four steel rods, about a foot and a half long, are pressed into both the kingpin and spring perch holes, Looking at the axle from the end shows any twist in the axle. If you are going to run parallel wishbones, don't worry about the twist of the spring perch holes. If you are going to run a stock type or split stock type wishbone the spring perch holes must be parallel. If not, the stock wishbone will not fit without forcing and will misalign the kingpin holes. The split type will bolt on with no problem except when the wishbone ends are bolted to the chassis at equal points in height, they will twist the axle.

    We left the axle in the vise and used a 24-inch adjustable end wrench over the spring perch boss to twist the axle. It bends easy, so be careful. If the perch holes are parallel but the king-pins are not, secure the axle at the perch bosses and grip the kingpin boss with the wrench and bend in the right direction. Eyeball with rods in place, or just use a level on the kingpins when using a parallel wishbone setup where the perch hole misalignment is not important.

    With the new axle installed, alignment is the standard procedure most competent front end shops can do with no problems, little time, and little money.

    Ken Mitchell, the front end alignment man at Haberfelde Ford in Bakersfield, gave me more information on beam axles. Ford beam axles are made of Canadian steel and are tempered. It is the temper that gives the axle the life to hold alignment. When the axle ends are heated too much it draws the life out of the steel and it becomes a dead axle. A live axle, when being bent, will be moved 2~ to 30 past the desired angle because of spring-back. A dead axle is easy to bend and will bend right to shape, no springback. As easily as it bends to shape, the car weight and road bumps will bend it back out of shape, pronto. Ken recommends bending any beam axle out of the car if it needs more than a half degree camber change. He uses right and left hand benders called 'crows feet," These should be used when changing camber on a dropped axle when only the area between the spring perch boss and kingpin boss is being bent. You can preheat the axle end to about 3000 F., but not enough to make the metal change color. When the axle changes color, it loses its temper, and becomes soft. If you have a dead axle it can be retempered by a professional heat treating shop,
     
  15. A Tudor

    A Tudor Gearhead

    Turinaa A Tudorista!
    267 + PG + 10 bolt
    Koneen vaihto ja muut luvat menee aika helposti läpi kun on asialliset hakemukset ja perustelee kaikki jutut hyvin.
    Itse olin jo vääntänyt auton ajokuntoon kun rupesin noita lupalappuja tekee, muutamia muutoksia joutu tekee esim 4-linkit. Kiitokset 46Juippille lupa-asioiden auttamisesta.
    AKE:ssa Pasi Paavola hoiti mun luvat ja neuvoi kaikessa, ja on hyvin perillä HotRod systeemeistä.
    Auto toimii hyvin ja rakentaminen jatkuu....
    http://community.webshots.com/user/warreshotrods-date
     
  16. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

    Hienoa! Lieneekö ennakkotapaus? Lättäpäällekin siis tod.näk. onnistuu luvat A:han. Paavola on muutenkin osoittautunut asialliseksi! :grin:

    Do-dadissä tuota rodia ja sen tekniikkaa ihmettelimmekin. Hienot projektikuvat sulla!

    <font size=-1>[ Tätä viestiä muokkasi: Chevy ´53 2003-10-08 12:04 ]</font>
     
  17. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

  18. A Tudor

    A Tudor Gearhead

    Projekti kuvia on lisää. Kun vaan ehtis laitta esille. Joo eiköhän se oo noita ennakkotapauksia...:wink:
     
  19. Chevy ´53

    Chevy ´53 Gearhead

    Mutta mistä löytyy samaa tietoa A:han? Tarvetta olis runkokuville ja cowlien vuosimallierotiedoille. Eikä ne etuakselijutut/taka-akselin räjäytyskuvalinkitkään pahitteeksi olis...

    B49: Mistä tuo jarruteksti on?




    Löytyyhän näitä jotain.
    Pannaas muutama linkki muistiin aihesta sitä mukaa kun löytyy:
    http://www.fordbarn.com/
    http://www.dmafc.com/forum05/
    http://www.modelaford.org

    <font size=-1>[ Tätä viestiä muokkasi: Chevy ´53 2004-04-19 15:14 ]</font>
     
  20. Ford_A

    Ford_A Gearhead

Kerro tästä muillekin!